What? Unfussy Italian

Where? 300-302 St. Paul's road, N1 2LH

When? When your parents have popped over for a visit.

Why? Because it is still the best restaurant in Islington and you want to impress your whole family.

I would have? Tagliarini with Dorset crab, chilli and lemon £12 | Black Hampshire pork chop with baked borlotti beans and anchovy and rosemary dressing £19

Inside track? Pop your name down for the private room. A £30 three-courser will keep everyone quiet.