What? Modern Indian.

Where?  12 Denman Street, W1D 7HH

When? You're willing to wait for a walk-in.

Why? Slick, soho, spice.  You're seriously behind if you still haven't been.  Sit at the counter and start ordering.

I would have? Tandoori monkfish, coconut chutney £11. Telangana beef pickle, roti, salted paneer £6.50

Inside track? You can't sit until you're all accounted for.